Clutch RPM Sensor??

I don't believe they make it for the clutch, but since the clutch is directly bolted to your crank, it is literally moving the same RPM as your engine. If you have a tachometer, you are seeing your clutch's RPM. That being said, if you learn your car's road to engine speed ratio for each gear, you will see that you can easily time shifts better for better pulls, or learn to launch at the goldilocks RPM to make you take off like an animal with minimal tire spin. It really just takes time, practice, and being able to listen to your car. Believe it or not, they do speak to you, you need only listen and decipher what the sounds and feelings are telling you to do, the rest is just tuning yourself to respond to it.

Ok... let me correct myself here. I just remembered that there is a such thing as a clutch speed sensor. It is used ironically enough in an automatic transmission. Only a handful of manufacturers call it this like Toyota for a couple years. It is technically what everyone refers to as an input sensor. This would only be on an electronic and a triptronic(auto/manual slapstick or auto stick) in an input/output speed sensor combination. All it is for is to tell the PCM or TCM what the road to engine speed ratios are in combination with an output speed sensor usually on a reluctor built into the CV shaft or internally on the output end of the transmission, letting it know when to shift. Well, there are other aspects involved like TPS angle, engine load, and a few others, but that is basically what it is for. Pretty much it is to the PCM/TCM what the crank/cam position sensors or reluctor ring(depending on the car) is to the tachometer. But, I will search for you, however, I do not believe they exist outside of these applications.

thanks bro.. well, i recently replaced the clutch, November 2011, and i will admit the first month i was driving it like a beginner, but after the first month the clutch was in average-good shape, and i know that for sure... and i felt like a mastered the shifting, starting from stop was good, and each shift after that i felt like it was perfect...the reason i felt like it was perfect because i wouldnt even feel the 'push' of changing gears, if u were with me in the car when i go from 2nd gear all the way thru to 5th gear, you would've forgotten ur in a manual, like perfect shifting i believe..



on a seperate note, last week i tried to take off quick from start,, okay okay i was trying to burn this kid, but my idiot ass burnt the clutch i think, like i gave it waaay too much gas when i havent fully let go of the clutch.. and then the next day i start feeling my clutch starting to go.. no the babe is sitting in the driveway and i feel like i should only drive it to the mechanic.. but before i let the mechanice start working on it, i want to see if there's anything else i can put to help me shift.. and well that's where the clutch rpm idea came in.

i thought maybe if there is a such thing, i'll know how fast the clutch is spinning and i'll match it to the engine speed? idk, it made sense to me, lol.



and on another note, any parts u recommend i put in to help with my gear-shifting? or anything that'll prolong the clutch? I was debating on selling my eclipse or not, i put it up and everything. i bought it for 1600, and put another 2100 in parts, and now i feel like i should just keep her. but at the same time, i dont want to keep her and keep puring money into her, so idk. what's ur opinion?



PS: I know, my babe talks to me all the time lol. but like u said, i just need to tune myself; to change gears subconsciously instead of keeping my mind on shifting lol.

What I can tell you is that the stock clutch on most cars do not have the clamping force necessary to prevent slippage during hard launches and rapid shifting in most cases. Instead, they are a little weaker, offering little slip for a smoother operation. If you want to replace less of them while being able to play a bit, just invest in a stage 2. There are tons to choose from and you do get what you pay for, but the biggest part of the success or failure of most of these is whether or not you break it in properly.Rule of thumb, just drive like a granny for 2 weeks without getting on it, and you will be alright. You will notice a lot tighter feeling clutch with a stage 2 and until you get used to it, it will feel pretty jerky on the initial grab, but more clamping force=less slippage=a little rougher ride until you get used to it=without purposely burning the clutch to hell, a lot longer clutch life even with the occasional playtime.

But like I said, there are a lot to choose from, and if there is one spot to spend some money on a car that you plan on keeping stock or you have a seed of thought about potentially modifying in the future... The clutch is where to spend the money. Look at a decent one before going straight to ebay on this one. Dont get me wrong, ebay has great quality stuff when you are searching for name brand in particular, but if you just type stage 2 clutch, you will find the "unbelievable deals"for a stage 2 that will burn or break the second you fry the tires.

KEVLAR CLUTCHES FOR THE WIN...

Any who... Keep the 3rd Gen... I can live vicariously threw you...

lol

@PureAdrenaline: Thanks for all the input, and for now, I am just going to replace the clutch with another stock one. and hopefully I'll get the hang of driving stick before I buy a stage 2.

@Martini: Yeah, I am going to keep her. lol.

Go Kevlar... probably run you about 350.00 for a decent one, and it will last you a good amount of time...

Good news! God answered my prayer and there aint nothing wrong with the clutch... I have no clue how that's possible, but my mechanic just called and said there isn't anything wrong. However, he said my car needs an 02 Sensor and something (I forgot the exact word) but it was like e-vac or some shit?

What's the necessity of the 02 Sensor and what's it do?



And if I said the second one right, what's that do and what's it for?

(Simple terms) O2 sensor detecs if your emissions are correct, there cheap and easy to replace, youll get better running car and slightly better mpg's... The evap leak could be why your car is the way it is... Basically your either taking in to much air or letting to much out...

okay... the guy quoted me 160 parts+labor.

and what do u mean by the car is the way it is? and he said it's broken in diiferent parts. if that helps..

I just meant that it is the way it is, because you thought your clutch was gone and a bad evap leak could make you think that...

If you did it youself it would prob cost 1/3 that but it is not a bad quote..